Poblanos are like the Russian roulette of peppers. You can get one as mild as a bell pepper and another as hot as a jalapeño. Either way, a ricotta stuffing improves them. The milk fat in the cheese mellows the tannic, astringent quality of mild poblanos and cools down the spiciness of the hot ones. I roast the poblanos, then core them and trim them so they lay flat, like a thin sheet cake. That allows you to stuff and roll the peppers jelly-roll style into a neat looking roulade. Underneath the roulade rests a quick sauté of ripe summer vegetables including corn and summer squash. Beneath that sits one of my favorite sauces ever, roasted tomato sauce. I learned it from Jordan Davis, my old sous chef at Woodfire Grill. He would roast summer tomatoes in the wood-burning oven and then pass them through the food mill to create a rustic tomato sauce with awesome fire-roasted flavor but none of the bitter black flecks. As a whole, the dish puts the spotlight squarely on ripe summer vegetables. It makes a great vegetarian entrée if you use vegetable stock instead of chicken stock.