I’ve never been a fan of pumpkin pie. I like pumpkins. I like cinnamon. But the crust is never good, the filling isn’t creamy enough, and the spices are too timid. Here’s an alternative dessert I developed with my pastry chef, Chrysta Poulos. It has all the desirable qualities I never found in pumpkin pie. I like a tart crust that’s a little crumblier and thicker, like shortbread cookies. And I prefer a superrich filling. The reality is that pumpkins are too watery for pie filling. I only want pumpkins on my porch, not in my pie. African squash makes a much better filling because it contains less water and more sugar. It also gets silkier when pureed. African squash is a winter variety that came to Georgia via Zaire (now known as the Democratic Republic of the Congo), but it’s also grown in other places. If you can’t find it, any garden-variety butternut squash makes a good substitute. Either way, the method here is foolproof. You bake the tart crust, let it cool, pour in the filling, and let it set up. For fun, I garnish the tart with whipped eggnog, which thickens up just like whipped cream but tastes even better.